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The
low morning sun is poking silver spears through the slivers
of fog that are hanging in stratified ribbons over the
hundred or so fish
boats moored in Valdez Harbor, bouncing off the brightwork,
lighting up the saltwater, warming my bones.
Skipper/guide Brandon Nemec nudges the 25-foot Trophy past
the gas dock, past the bank-casting hot spot at Allison
Point, past the oil storage tanks and security guards at the
infamous Alyeska Pipeline terminal through Valdez Narrows
toward a cliff called Sawmill Bay where he is confidently
predicting that we'll find a few acres of the 100,000 silver
salmon expected in Valdez this summer.
The salt
water is flat, dappled with white birds, floating sea
otters, kelp bulbs and the shimmering reflection of the
mountains and glaciers that cradle this sport-fishing town.
Brandon is talking about the monstrous silver salmon runs
that surge into this little piece of Prince William Sound in
late summer, guessing that Jim and I will have our 12 coho
limit (6 each) in the boat before the coffee gets cold. I'm
listening to the salmon talk, smiling in the sun but
watching for shark fins.
Yesterday
is less than 12 hours behind us, too close to forget a day
filled with circling salmon sharks, dozens of fins slicing
the oily green surface, hookups with 500 pound 50 mph
predators, snapped 800-pound test braided stainless steel
leader, 20/0 hooks, baits plug-cut from full grown cohos.
Jim Goerg,
TRN publisher/editor and I are on the second leg of our
Valdez shark and salmon expedition, the salmon leg.
Yesterday we ran 70 miles up Prince William Sound to
challenge quarter-ton salmon sharks at the edge of the Gulf
of Alaska. Today, we fish for 12-pound silver cohos
practically on Valdez' wet doorstep.
This is a
combination package too tough to pass up: Tangling with
monster sharks in salmon country, bunking in a colorful port
town deep in a fjord surrounded by North America's tallest
coastal mountains and the most heavily glaciated range in
the Northwest, where sea level snow fall averages 27 feet,
salmon are caught off the public dock, and both the oil
spill of '89 and the 9.2 earthquake of '64 took place on
Good Fridays.
Brandon
Nemec is one of a handful of charter skippers riding point
in Alaska's hottest new big game fishery—salmon sharks
10-feet long, up to a 1000 pounds, 50 mph reel burners,
first cousin to a mako, second cousin to great white. When
he's
not salmon sharking he's skippering for salmon and halibut,
and both are plentiful in the Valdez-PWS region.
Valdez,
pronounced ValDeez, is one of those rare Alaskan
"fishing paradises" with highway connections to the rest of
North America. Located at the head of Prince William Sound,
southeast of Anchorage, Valdez is on the Richardson Highway
305 wilderness miles from Anchorage and 2361 miles from
Seattle. Ferries on the Alaska Marine Highway system also
dock here.
Jim and I
arrived by air in the late afternoon on August 9 on an ERA
commuter flight from Anchorage International Airport. The 40
minutes between Anchorage and Valdez is a flight-seeing
spectacular; a low-level crossing of wrinkled ice fields,
monstrous glacial swaths, trackless peaks, heather basins
and blue-green fjords salted with ice bergs.
Sharon
Crisp, executive director of the Valdez Convention and
Visitors Bureau, arranged for us to stay at Swifty's Alaskan
Adventures on Mineral Creek at the edge of town. The owner,
Bob Swift, is Brandon's grandfather, and the lodge is an
interesting blend of comfortable sleeping rooms, fish
stories, and a cook-it-yourself kitchen that is well equipped. And there are 11
restaurants in this town of 4100.
We're
salmon fishing just 14 miles outside Valdez and salmon
sharks, Brandon assures me, rarely venture this deep into
Prince William Sound. Still, I watch.
And I
keep watching until it becomes obvious that Brandon has
parked the Bayliner on top of a smoking hot silver salmon
bite. Green backs and chrome-bright sides flash under the
boat. Forget yesterday's sharks, this is today and there are
coho salmon to be caught.
More than
100,000 coho salmon jam into the tight walls of Valdez
between mid-July and early September, according to Alaska
Department of Fish and Game (ADFG), many headed for the
Solomon Gulch Salmon Hatchery at the mouth of the Lowe
River. This hatchery is also responsible for millions of the
26 million pinks that return to the east end of PWS
annually.
According
to ADFG, Prince William Sound has big numbers of both wild
and hatchery silvers.
Wild
silvers spawn in Eastern Prince William Sound's freshwater
streams from August through October returning as 8- to
15-pound adults (some push 20). Because PWS streams
infrequently get blasted by flooding wild fish returns vary
with the year .
The hatchery return, however, has been fairly constant and
last year it was hot.
The top
silver spots, according to ADFG, are in the Valdez Narrows
and off the beaches of Allison Point, Anderson Bay, Mineral
Creek, and Gold Creek.
Silvers
arrive in Valdez Bay by the first week of August, and peak
mid-August through early September.
There are
also chums and kings in the Valdez area, but nowhere near
the silver numbers. ADFG has launched a hatchery program to
increase chinook numbers, and there is optimism that in the
next several years the hatchery effort will grow a good king
fishery.
For now,
though, Valdez salmon sport fishing means silvers and this
one has Jim wrapped under the boat and is smoking for the
horizon.
We're on
top of the school and all alone. The nearest boats are
clustered in the distance below the 1,000-foot crash of a
waterfall gushing from Anderson Glacier down the face of
Mount Thomas.
With
light mooching rods, 4 ounce red crescent sinkers, 3/0
hooks, and plug cut herring, we're fishing between 20 and 40
feet deep in 340 feet of 58-degree water and the silvers are
on the slam. Jim brings his fish in, a nice 9-pounder.
Brandon flips it free.
I have
six hookups in six drops and these are hot fish: tailwalkin',
back-flippin', line sizzlers.
My first
one slams the herring just under the surface 20 feet out. I
can see it strike and I'm reeling hard when the fish rockets
under the boat and jumps on the other side The silver is
running too hard and too fast, to allow slack to develop in
the line. It's a good thing. I'd need a 10-speed reel
and Superman hands to keep up with this fish.
Back off
the drag, let him run, reel like crazy, grin and watch Jim
hookup again.
Several
times I watch a pod of half a dozen coho streak for the
bait, competing for my herring. Gotta love that.
We're
drifting, not trolling, because there's no need to move the
baits. Drop the herring, crank it a few times and the salmon
race to grab it. Incredibly, I sometimes don't even have to
reel to attract a hook up. Fishing dead bait, with no spin,
catches these competitive fish, it just takes a little
longer.
When I
finally take my eyes off the fish attack and look around,
we're no longer alone. A few yards off the bow, the Happyjack, is crowded with day trippers who are playing
fish constantly, sometimes two and three at a time.
By any
salmon fishing standards this is a hot bite. Even by Valdez
standards, it's exceptional, Brandon says. A year earlier
and skippers scratched hard for coho. This year they can't
keep 'em off the hook.
In less
than 2 hours Jim and I have sorted through a couple of dozen
landed fish, and boxed our 12 coho limit with silvers to
almost 14 pounds. In another hour Brandon takes his 6-coho
limit. In less than three hours we've kept 18 hooknosed
silvers for an average of 6-fish limit every hour. Jim
points out that that average doesn't count the lightweights
– the 9 pounders and down – that we kicked back.
"I
haven't been out once this year when I didn't come back with
limits of silvers," Brandon says, adding, "It's not always
this great but it's always good. We're having a great silver
year."
Jim and I
are having a great silver morning, I know that. And so is
every other boat in our neighborhood. Rarely did I look at a
boat that wasn't hooked up, sometimes with more than one rod
bent.
Back at
the dock we have our salmon filleted by
a
fishing machine named Pat, who runs a table on the
waterfront and can speed finesse fillets for a buck a fish –
a bargain.
The catch
is flash frozen and vacuum packed at Fish Central for $1 a pound, boxed and waiting for us in the morning when
we head for the airport.
The
silvers – and halibut – are the backbone of several big
money Valdez derbies.
The most
popular is an $80,000 derby that runs for halibut from
May-Sept. and silvers July 30 through Labor Day.
Winner of
the 2004 silver derby weighed 19.44 pounds and Lloyd Jones
took the top halibut derby with a 310.6 pounder.
In
mid-August the city is holding a one-day Women's Silver
Salmon Derby which is gaining popularity, and there's a pink
salmon derby all of July.
When the
pinks and coho arrive at the Valdez waterfront, docks and
piers load with boatless salmon anglers, some throwing
spoons and spinners, herring and jigs and others fishing
standard plug cuts beneath bobbers. Several public fishing
piers are available.
While Jim
and I didn't get a chance to try for halibut or lings they
are a major part of the Valdez fishery, according to ADFG
( Alaska Department of Fish and Game ).
Some of
the more popular halibut fishing areas include Knowles Head
and Red Head, Galena Bay, and Sawmill Bay. Peak halibut
fishing is June through July.
Both
rockfish and lingcod are found throughout PWS waters. In
Eastern PWS, lings up to 30 pounds are caught, according to
ADFG.
PWS is
also a promising spot to fill a shrimp pot. Pink, spot, and
coonstripe shrimp are the main species in Prince William
Sound. Pink shrimp occur over the widest depth range. Spot
and coonstripe shrimp typically are found in shallower water
and over rock piles or debris covered bottoms.
The Gulf
of Alaska shrimp population has been in a steep decline
since the mid 1970s, and a shrimp permit is required. The
one dark cloud hangs over the crab fishery.
Because
of low populations, Prince William Sound is closed to king,
Dungeness, and tanner crab fishing.
Valdez's
sharks and silvers may offer one of the most unusual
combination fisheries in Alaska, but when you throw in
halibut, lings, rockfish, shrimp and spectacular scenery, it
becomes a must-do return trip.

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